Thursday 15 October 2015

South Wales Sport - Dispelling the myth...

South Wales Sport Climbing.... Traditionally when someone mentions a weekend away in South Wales their belayers run for cover; and to be honest they can't be blamed. The area has a reputation for unfriendly locals and burned out cars, routes which are half fallen down, sandbag grades and the lack of a decent guide.

Gilwern in the distance, can the valleys really be that bad?
Even back in the university Opinel days, with Edan's Cardiff HQ on the doorstep of the valleys, we more or less wrote this place off... having watched Tom experience night terrors after trying a '3 star classic' and myself vowing, after a terrible experience at Llanymynech, never to climb on sandstone again.

Acting like a true South Wales L.A.D. Yes, my doughnut!
Things changed however, as Cheddar began to get repetitive, and the opening of some friendly crags such as Tirpentwys. Then 2015 happened, before I knew it Jen and I were living in Monmouth, these 'horrors' had become our local, giving us a chance to explore properly.... and then it finally dawned...

There is a boat load of climbing in South Wales.
Some of it is pants, like, really bad.
Some of it is good.
Some of it is absolutely fantastic. like, really really good.

It's 'just' a case of knowing where to go, and unfortunately current guides don't really help.

Just some of the crags South Wales has to offer
Luckily Mark and Bridget have been up and down like yo-yo's all summer. As well as being exceptionally well housetrained and having a taste for good wine, Mark's 6th sense for a good crag has made our tour of the SW sport much easier.

Shipwreck Cove, freshly bolted
In recent times the Gower has become much more popular, mainly due to the destination articles and bolt funds for Shipwreck Cove (which is now very busy).

However, take a walk off the beaten track and there are handfuls of smaller crags with immaculate and in many cases steep, juggy limestone waiting to be climbed.

Jen crossing through at steep and juggy Foxhole
Fox Hole is a personal favorite, offering ridiculously steep routes on jugs at 7a/+ closely followed by Oxwich which overhung, lacking decent holds and pretty much 100% ferocious.

Patty on the powerful Resin D'Etre - Oxwich

It's also a great place to pass time by the sea, camp, and eat pub food, unlike... er the valleys. I've spent a total of 6 weekends here this year and have loved every day of it. It's really one of the best sport venues in the country.

Mark finishing the Raven 7a+, 30m mega route at Minchin Hole

Aylwin stealthily kicking ass on Red with Rage - Photo taken by Chavwin

Enjoying the sun at Bowen's Parlour - Photo taken by Jordano
Jordano pulling hard on Red River Rock

Same route, different Chav.
The valleys sandstone is a little more complex matter. No two ways about it, some of the routes are shit, and some of the venues are shitholes. Personally, I hate climbing in shit venues, it ruins my day.

However, look past this, and pick carefully, and there are some amazing spots in the sandstone quarries, some of which could even be called picturesque. Sirhowy, Tirpentwys, Navigation, and perhaps even Cwmamam fall in to this category. Look past the the quarry floors and there are plenty of other venues with decent climbing, even if you're not quite 100% with nature, Mountain Ash and Bargoed are good examples of this.

Mwah Mwah Mwah - Sirhowy. Classic 7a Photo taken by Chavwin

The routes take some getting used to, there is almost always some loose rock, you tend to get pumped out of your skull within 5 meters, and an ability to climb 7b+ consistently on sandstone makes you a regional champion (i.e., you will probably fail).

Skelhon getting in to the Welsh spirit - this would bring a drop to Roy's teary eye
However, get past the ego and they style becomes very interesting, powerful with no let up.

Jen making the sandstone look far too easy

Bargoed, a little grotty, but great climbing
Back on the limestone, as well as the Gower there are plenty of smaller crags dotted around the place, with some pretty decent variation.

Nature in the quarries.....
Gilwern, reportedly, offers lovely summer evening climbing - though is one to avoid in mid November (as Chavwin, Jen and I found out the hard way!).

Freezing our tits off at Gilwern ... another Skelhon special

Witches Point is a little like Brean (and probably just as good), Temple Bay offers some traddy routes, and Taffs Well offers some great limestone technical test pieces.

Bridget enjoying Temple Bay
Further west, Wintours and Ban-Y-Gor, offer some great after work pitches. Ban-Y-Gor in particular is absolutely massive, and in a lovely location.  The climbs are hard, expect V4 at 6c, and expect to fall off. They are sometimes dirty. But seek out the gems and it'll be worth it.

Exploring Dinas Rock, and messing around at Wintours. Dave is too big for this crag.


All in all, when I think back of what I've been up to in South Wales in 2015 and previous years, there's been a lot of climbing.

And it's excellent.


Climb name Grade Style Partner(s) Date Crag name
Really Big Sur 7c  ** Lead dog Jenni, Dave Pattinson 22/Jun/15 Ban-y-gor
Encore! Magnifique! 7b+  *** Lead dog Jenni 01/Jun/14 The Gap
Strawberry Jam 7b+  * Lead RP Jenni 15/Mar/14 Tirpentwys
Power Struggle 7b+   Lead dog Tom Jordan, Jenni 19/Apr/15 Foxhole
Too Hot to Touch 7b  *** Lead dog Jenni, Dave Pattinson 22/Jun/15 Ban-y-gor
Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove 7b  *** Lead RP Tom Jordan, Jenni 19/Apr/15 Foxhole
Nelson Mandela 7b  ** Lead RP Jenni, Tom 30/May/15 Ban-y-gor
Just Too Hot 7b  ** Lead dog Jenni 05/Apr/15 Ban-y-gor
Red River Rock 7b  ** Lead RP Tom Jordan 31/Aug/15 Oxwich Bay Quarry
Wrecking Ball 7b  ** TR dog Jenni 13/Jul/13 Rhossili Bay
Easier Said than Done 7b  ** Lead Tom ???/2015 Wintour's Leap
The De-Regulators 7b  * Lead dog Jenni 27/Jun/15 Dinas Rock
Mein Kampf (Pitch 1) 7b  * Lead dog Jenni, Tom 07/Mar/15 Wintour's Leap
Trailblazer 7b   Lead dog Jenni, Mark Glaister ???/2015 Taffs Well West
Propaganda 7a+  *** Lead dog Jenni 07/Jun/13 Cwmaman Main and Cwmaman West Quarries
The Raven 7a+  *** TR dog Jenni 14/Jul/13 Minchen Hole
Red With Rage 7a+  *** Lead dog Jenni, Mark Glaister 03/Sep/15 Oxwich Bay Quarry
Lyddite 7a+  ** Lead dog Chaz Mc'Dee, Tom 11/Jul/15 Bargoed
Foxy Chicken 7a+  ** Lead rpt Jenni, Dave Pattinson 11/Apr/15 Foxhole
Ducky Lucky 7a+  ** Lead rpt Jenni, Dave Pattinson 11/Apr/15 Foxhole
Outspan 7a+  ** Lead dog Dave Pattinson 13/Apr/14 Mountain Ash Quarry
Pastis On Ice 7a+  ** Lead dog Dave Pattinson 13/Apr/14 Mountain Ash Quarry
Cointreau 7a+  ** Lead dog Dave Pattinson 13/Apr/14 Mountain Ash Quarry
Spirit Of Missouri 7a+  ** Lead Tom ???/2008 Taffs Well Main
Pleasant Valley Sunday 7a+  ** Lead dog Jenni 01/Jun/14 The Gap
Pump Action 7a+  ** Lead RP Tom 11/Oct/15 Watch House Crag
B'stard 7a+  * Lead dnf Tom 31/May/10 Ban-y-gor
Resin D'Etre 7a+  * Lead dog Tom 10/Oct/15 Oxwich Bay Quarry
Round Are Way ( 2 ) 7a+  * TR dog Tom 05/Jul/09 The Darren (aka Lan Quarry)
Crocker's Ash 7a+   Lead dog Jenni 01/Jul/15 Ban-y-gor
When Push Comes To Shove 7a+   Lead dnf Tom 23/Sep/08 Dinas Rock
Sheer Heart Attack 7a+   Lead RP Jenni, Mark Glaister 02/Aug/15 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Scream For Cream 7a+   Lead RP Jenni, Mark Glaister 05/Sep/15 Taffs Well West
Sink Or Swim 7a+   Lead RP Mark Glaister 04/Sep/15 Taffs Well West
Don't Lower the Tone 7a+   Lead RP Dan P 29/Mar/12 Wintour's Leap
Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You 7a+   Lead dnf Jenni, Dave Pattinson 16/Nov/13 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Tight Man's Tips 7a+   Lead RP Jenni, Dave Pattinson 16/Nov/13 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Joy de Viva 7a  *** Lead rpt Jenni, Dave Pattinson 11/Apr/15 Foxhole
Geef Onze Fietsen Terug! 7a  ** Lead dog Jenni 18/May/13 Barland Quarry
The Hooker 7a  ** Lead rpt Jenni, Dave Pattinson 19/May/13 Foxhole
Heil Hitler 7a  ** Lead RP Dan P 07/Aug/11 Wintour's Leap
Up a Gum Tree 7a  * Lead RP Jenni 22/Jun/15 Ban-y-gor
Blabba Mouth 7a  * Lead dnf Tom 31/May/10 Ban-y-gor
Craters of Mono 7a  * Lead dog Tom 31/May/10 Ban-y-gor
Sunstone (AKA The Mark of Zorro) 7a  * Lead dog Jenni 24/May/15 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Mawr, Mawr, Mawr 7a  * Lead RP Jenni, Tom 23/May/15 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Killer Queen 7a  * Lead dog Jenni 12/Jul/14 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Melting Man 7a  * Lead dog Tom 12/Oct/08 Taffs Well Main
Norman Normal 7a  * Lead RP Jenni, Mark Glaister 04/Aug/15 Taffs Well West
Palm 7a  * Lead dnf Jenni 01/Jan/13 Taffs Well West
Hail Mary 7a  * Lead RP Jenni 08/Jun/13 Tirpentwys
Wilkinson's Sword 7a  * Lead dog Jenni, Dave Pattinson 16/Nov/13 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Rob Roy 7a   Lead RP Jenni 27/Jun/15 Dinas Rock
Marmalade Skies 7a   Lead rpt Jenni, Dave Pattinson 11/Apr/15 Foxhole
Gott In Himmel 7a   Lead dnf Jenni 20/Jul/14 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Strain Drain 7a   Lead dog Tom 11/Oct/15 Watch House Crag
Ghengis Khan 6c+  *** Lead O/S Tom 24/Sep/08 Taffs Well Main
Supertramp 6c+  ** Lead dog Tom 29/Jun/13 Tirpentwys
Shin Gi Tai 6c+  ** Lead dog Jenni, Dave Pattinson 16/Nov/13 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Our Man In Bargoed 6c+  * Lead RP Chaz Mc'Dee, Mark Glaister, Tom 11/Jul/15 Bargoed
The Crimson King 6c+  * Lead dog Jenni 20/Jul/14 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Chicken Licken 6c+   Lead rpt Jenni, Dave Pattinson 11/Apr/15 Foxhole
Enter the Darren 6c+   Lead dnf Tom 05/Jul/09 The Darren (aka Lan Quarry)
Mr Whippy 6c+   Lead RP Ross 25/Apr/11 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Kissin' the Pink 6c  *** Lead RP Tom 24/Sep/08 Oxwich Bay Quarry
Wij Zitten Nog In Een Sneeuwstorm 6c  ** TR dog Jenni 18/May/13 Barland Quarry
Miss You 6c  ** Lead RP Jenni 18/May/13 Barland Quarry
Duhkha 6c  * Lead dog Jenni 27/May/15 Ban-y-gor
Hostility Suite 6c  * Lead RP Jenni 20/Jul/14 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Clip Joint 6c  * Lead RP Tom 11/Oct/15 Watch House Crag
Diminishing Returns 6c  * Lead dog Jenni 09/Mar/14 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Call a Spade a Spade 6c   Lead O/S Tom 23/Sep/08 Dinas Rock
Deus ex machina 6c   Lead β Jenni, Mark Glaister 06/Sep/15 Navigation Quarry
East of Sweden 6b+  ** Lead dog Jenni, Tom 30/May/15 Ban-y-gor
Strange Little Girl 6b+  ** Lead O/S Jenni 12/Jul/14 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Violation of Trust 6b+  * Lead RP Jenni 05/Apr/15 Ban-y-gor
Totally Radish 6b+  * Lead O/S Tom 23/Sep/08 Dinas Rock
No Epoxy Au Oxley 6b+  * Lead RP Tom Jordan, Jenni 19/Apr/15 Foxhole
The Day The Sky Fell In 6b+  * Lead O/S Jenni, Dave Pattinson 11/Apr/15 Foxhole
Queens of the Stone Age 6b+  * Lead O/S Jenni, Mark Glaister 02/Aug/15 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Better In than Out 6b+  * Lead O/S Jenni, Dan P, Mark Glaister, Tom 23/Nov/13 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Slug Control 6b+   Lead rpt Jenni 27/May/15 Ban-y-gor
Up For Grabs 6b+   Lead O/S Chaz Mc'Dee, Tom 11/Jul/15 Bargoed
Raving Queen 6b+   Lead O/S Jenni, Mark Glaister 02/Aug/15 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Balthazaar's Ball Sac Bulges Beholding Bouncing Bargoed Booties 6b  ** Lead RP Chaz Mc'Dee, Tom 11/Jul/15 Bargoed
The Cragmeister 6b  ** Lead RP Jenni 08/Jun/13 Tirpentwys
Cheesy Rider 6b  * Lead RP Jenni 27/Jun/15 Dinas Rock
The Deflated Dick-Head 6b  * Lead O/S Jenni 01/Feb/15 Dinas Rock
Lundy Boy 6b  * Lead O/S Tom 29/Jun/13 Tirpentwys
The tactless teacher 6b  * Lead O/S Tom 29/Jun/13 Tirpentwys
Flakes and Chips 6b  * Lead O/S Tom 29/Jun/13 Tirpentwys
Twisted logic 6b  * Lead O/S Tom 29/Jun/13 Tirpentwys
Finishing Touch 6b  * Lead rpt Jenni 09/Mar/14 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Lip Service 6b   Lead Jenni 01/Jul/15 Ban-y-gor
Black Magic 6b   Lead β Jenni, Mark Glaister 06/Sep/15 Navigation Quarry
Land Of The Dinosaurs 6b   Lead RP Jenni 01/Jun/14 The Gap
you've had your chicks 6b   Lead O/S Jenni, G Warner 25/Jul/15 Tirpentwys
Still Nice and Sleazy 6a+  ** Lead dnf Dan P 29/Mar/12 Wintour's Leap
Stinking Of Fish 6a+  * Lead O/S Jenni 18/May/13 Barland Quarry
Mr Potato Head 6a+  * Lead O/S Jenni 01/Feb/15 Dinas Rock
D'ya Hear Ma Dear 6a+  * Lead O/S Tom 24/Sep/08 Taffs Well Main
Bluster 6a+  * Lead O/S Tom Jordan, Jenni, Dave Pattinson 01/Jun/14 The Gap
Fluster 6a+  * Lead O/S Tom Jordan, Jenni, Dave Pattinson 01/Jun/14 The Gap
Dinofever 6a+  * Lead O/S Jenni 08/Mar/14 Tintern Quarry
Polarization 6a+   Lead O/S Jenni 05/Apr/15 Ban-y-gor
Beavers At Bargoed 6a+   Lead O/S Chaz Mc'Dee, Tom 11/Jul/15 Bargoed
Slip Into The Queen 6a+   TR RP Jenni, Mark Glaister 02/Aug/15 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Aedan's Arete 6a+   Lead dog Jenni 20/Jul/14 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Mother of Pearl 6a+   Lead O/S Jenni 08/Mar/14 Tintern Quarry
Dinomania 6a+   Lead O/S Jenni 08/Mar/14 Tintern Quarry
Fledgling 6a+   Lead O/S Jenni, G Warner 25/Jul/15 Tirpentwys
One Tooth Short of a Smile 6a+   Lead O/S Jenni 09/Mar/14 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Groping For Jugs 6a  ** Lead O/S Chaz Mc'Dee, Mark Glaister, Tom 11/Jul/15 Bargoed
A Poxy Queen 6a  * Lead β Jenni, Mark Glaister 02/Aug/15 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Leading Edge 6a  * Lead O/S Jenni 15/Mar/14 Tirpentwys
Mental Mantles 6a  * Lead O/S Jenni 15/Mar/14 Tirpentwys
Rocky 6a  * Lead O/S Jenni 08/Jun/13 Tirpentwys
Hey Mister 6a   Lead O/S Jenni 04/Jun/13 Cwmaman Main and Cwmaman West Quarries
Buff The Happy Lamp 6a   Lead O/S Jenni 04/Jun/13 Cwmaman Main and Cwmaman West Quarries
Crow 6a   Lead RP Dave Pattinson ???/2006 Tintern Quarry
Crumlin at the seams 6a   TR Jenni, G Warner 25/Jul/15 Tirpentwys
Crumlin at the edges 6a   Lead O/S Jenni, G Warner 25/Jul/15 Tirpentwys
Same Old Story 6a   Lead O/S Jenni 09/Mar/14 Wyndcliffe Quarry
Fromage Frais 5c   Lead O/S Jenni 27/Jun/15 Dinas Rock
Little Queen 5c   Lead O/S Jenni, Mark Glaister 02/Aug/15 Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Pot Head 5a  ** Lead O/S Jenni 01/Feb/15 Dinas Rock
Morning Winpenny 5a   Lead rpt Jenni, Tom 30/May/15 Ban-y-gor
Morning Winpenny 5a   Lead rpt Jenni 27/May/15 Ban-y-gor
Just a Mo 5a   Lead O/S Jenni 08/Mar/14 Tintern Quarry
Ledge and Braces 5a   Lead O/S Jenni, G Warner 25/Jul/15 Tirpentwys
Crumlin towards England 5a   TR Jenni, G Warner 25/Jul/15 Tirpentwys
Shrew 5a   Lead O/S Jenni 08/Jun/14 Tirpentwys
By deFault line 5a   Lead O/S Jenni 08/Jun/14 Tirpentwys
Stranded No More 5a   Lead O/S Jenni, Dave Pattinson 16/Nov/13 Wyndcliffe Quarry
The yolk's on  you 4c   Lead O/S Jenni, G Warner 25/Jul/15 Tirpentwys
Paw Me 4c   Lead O/S Jenni 08/Jun/14 Tirpentwys
Day Break 4a   Lead rpt Jenni 27/May/15 Ban-y-gor
Puffed Daddy 4a   Lead O/S Jenni 08/Mar/14 Tintern Quarry
Sea of Change 4a   Lead O/S Dave Pattinson ???/2006 Tintern Quarry
Yank my Chain 4a   Lead O/S Jenni 08/Jun/14 Tirpentwys




Saturday 3 October 2015

Chulilla - Enjoying getting roasted

It's been an odd summer, let's face it, it's not been rubbish, but we never got that 3 weeks of high pressure I was hoping for. Feeling the need for a proper baking Jen and I headed to Chulilla (for me, the 3rd time in 12 months!).

Late September was hot, 27 degrees, but thankfully the best climbing is in the full shade, and it made for lovely evenings on the balcony. Certainly made a change from the hard groundfrost back in Feb!

Las Lamentaciones, imposing from the balcony and best avoided in the summer heat!
Let me just say this. Chulilla is freakin' awesome.There's a lot more if you can O/S 7c comfortably, however plenty at 7a & 7b also, and probably the 'best' routes I have ever had the pleasure of climbing. We spent most of the time at Chorreras, which translates along the lines of watercourses... Tufas! and Sector Oasis. Chorerras in particular is an amazing crag, 60m high, covered in streaks and tufas, with over 10 full 40m stamina fest 7a-7b's. There's pretty much no point in stars at this place, it's more a matter of opinion, that was the best route I've ever climbed... no that was!

Wall climbing and hanging tufas high on Chorreras
Full on 40 meter pitches really do make a lot of UK sport look small, and it's daunting at first, but it soon gets less scary, and more fun.

Jen onsighting a monster 40m 6b+/c classic at Sector Oasis
As always, Chulilla was particularly full of interesting people. On the first day we met and climbed with Chris Sharma's 'Schedule Organizer', a chilled American dude called Jeff, and his wife, living in Siurana. A few days later we bumped in to Juan Carlos, a local who loves the climbing livestyle... it was this guy who inspired me to start resoling shoes! He was just as full of banter, crag advice and as encouraging as I remember from my trip with Chavwin last winter. It was great to show him my handywork and also to see his prototype full shoes in action, handmade & they look great.

Finally we bumped in to some Germans, who were great to hang out with, one's from Berlin. More on the to come.

Daniel enjoying the shade of Chorreras
On our rest day we headed over to Charco Azul, an amazing blue gorge which was great for a swim and a chill.....


El Charco Azul, great for a swim (or a DWS slackline, spot the red highline if you can!!)
Chulilla's answer to Chorro's Camino Del Ray.... Calmino Del Jen.
One final thing. We went in the 3rd week of September. Never do this!!! Everything in the whole area is pretty much closed (shops, restaurants, pubs)  3rd & 4th week of Sept. Luckily we were in self catering and got by just about fine! :-)

Here's the ticklist.


Name Grade Style http://cdn.ukc2.com/log/arrowd.gif
Crag name
Los Caminantes (P1) 7b ** Lead RP Chulilla
Sendero luminoso L1 7a+ ** Lead RP Chulilla
Camino de Leche 7a+ Lead RP Chulilla
Pompas finas 7a+ Lead RP Chulilla
Plan Z 7a *** Lead O/S Chulilla
Super furry animal 7a *** Lead O/S Chulilla
Chamarilero 6c+ *** Lead β Chulilla
Que hago jugando... 6c * Lead β Chulilla
Long Jong John 6b+ ** Lead RP Chulilla
Nazgul 6b+ Lead RP Chulilla
Magnetoresistencia 6b+ *** Lead RP Chulilla
Gargola (P1) 6b Lead O/S Chulilla
Los pagafantas 6a+ Lead rpt Chulilla

Monday 24 August 2015

Zinc Oxide Mountain

Feeling a little under the weather today..... Tip, for best weight loss results take turkey and cooked rice, leave out of the fridge for 24h, then reheat to lukewarm... Just don't expect to climb for a few days! Anyway the silver lining is that it has allowed me to go through & rejuvenate some old 'archives'. Here's a simple video of Jonny 'Stealth' Aylwin cruising the classic Zinc Oxide Mountain Fr7b+ at Portland, 2014.

I've often wondered about the name of this one, what does it mean? Perhaps it's that Zinc Oxide is used in just about everything modern, any ideas?

Enjoy!

HD Video

Monday 13 April 2015

Sport Climbing Spring - Smashing the Gower

Spring is here. Amidst the wind and rain this glorious high pressure system had stuck itself over the south west and seems to be here to stay. Jenni, Moosey Pattinson and I head to the Gower to check out some of the new and old sports routes which have made this place one of the best (and under rated) sports spots in the UK.

We spent 2 days at Fox Hole, a steep athletic crag on sideways jugs which often require clever body balance to use them wisely.


Panorama & a topo of weekend sends for the incredible Fox Hole
Starting on some of the original lines we warmed up on The Day the Sky Fell In, a brilliant 6b+ reach fest between jugs, amazing, just a shame it's not longer! Following that we moved on to Ducky Lucky, again a short route at 7a+ / V3, but quality steep moves that would hold their quality anywhere.

Long and Powerful moves on Ducky Lucky 7a+*
Patty then made short work the aptly named Power Struggle 7b+**, an original sports line at the Gower, followed by a Simon Rawlinson - recommended 7c link up. Woodie training paid off obviously!

We finished it off with an ascent of the crag classic Joy de Vive 7a***, which tackles a highly improbable 20 degree overhanging wall through the centre of the crag. Well named.

Making the most of the good holds on Joy de Vive, before it gets really steep! 7a***
Tackling the headwall of Joy de Vive
After some beer and a rest at the Llangennith campsite, we fought our way back through the wind and down to the sheltered crag. A quick morning ascent of the deceptively steep Foxy Chicken 7a+**, Joy de Vive 7a*** for Jen, and another 7b link-up for Patty was followed by a run on the very different Marmalade Skies, a tricky but pleasant wall problem at 7a*.

Reachy moves on Joy de Vive

Not all powerful, sometimes technique helps!
Given the glorious weather on Saturday, and near perfect conditions at this sunny and sheltered crag, it does make me wonder why it's not packed this time of year. In fact the only 2 groups we bumped in to were those who are active bolters in the area. With Brean so busy, the quality and quantity of the near-deserted Gower is outstanding. For now it's a secret best kept, and I'm sure planning on making the most of it before the masses move in. See you there.

Spain? Greece? Nope, South Wales. The unlikely looking, steep lines of the Gower leave me wanting more...
This weekend's tick list...
Name Grade Style
Crag name
Marmalade Skies 7a Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
Chicken Licken 6c+ Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
Foxy Chicken 7a+ ** Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
Joy de Viva 7a *** Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
Ducky Lucky 7a+ ** Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
The Day The Sky Fell In 6b+ * Lead O/S Foxhole Cove